Anti-seize on spark plugs? Not recommended by the spark plug companies AFAIK.
Anti-seize on spark plugs? Not recommended by the spark plug companies AFAIK.
There are some who are against it, but on the contrary many for it.
I will quote a few examples:
The first from "Bob is the Oil Guy", a very well known USA based forum dealing primarily with automotive lubricants and various associated products where my username is "AussieLeadfoot".
(the following is not from a thread that I have participated in - I don't participate there much - just mainly observe)
Next, from a mechanics forum that I am not a member of/participate in.Thread Title: Anti-seize for spark plugs
(from page #3 by a member who has 33,000 posts.)
I've been using it on plugs for decades, that's how I was taught. The key is to carefully apply it to the threads and keep it away from the electrode area. I don't see any problem if its used properly and with common sense. The last thing I want is a plug welded into the head when a dab of anti-seize was all it takes to avoid that.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...gs#Post2552065
Not necessarily definitive guidance for automotive use, but it might be useful to understand that there are some close parallels between aircraft and automotive piston engines.Thread Title:should-i-use-lubricant-or-not-when-installing-these-spark-plugs
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Post #3
I always use anti-seize whenever I'm installing spark plugs of whatever type for several reasons:
If installing spark plugs into aluminum heads, it helps prevent pulling the threads out with the spark plug during removal.
It seals the threads to help keep the combustion gasses inside the cylinder.
It helps conduct heat.
It better grounds the spark plug to the head.
I'm sure there's other things I could write down as well, but this is sufficient. Anti-seize does a lot more than act as a lubricant. As long as you don't over tighten a spark plug, you should have no fear of using it.
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https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...se-spark-plugs
I am interested in many aspects of aircraft operation - big and small, civil and military and the faster or more powerful, the better.From:pilotsofamerica.com
Thread Title:"changing spark plugs, got a little anti seize on the insulator."
(I'm not a member at that forum)
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Go to NAPA and buy a 4 oz can of nickel antiseze, the copper stuff that Lycoming[maker of small aircraft piston engines] likes seems to turn to super glue nabove 400 degrees. nickel is good to around 1800 degrees. and it is cheaper.
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https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/comm...sulator.98398/
It is my "other" hobby.
Well, that and 20th century Military History, which stems from my lifelong interest in Combat Aircraft.
Having formerly held a Private Pilots Licence with Aerobatics Rating in the 1980's and 1990's might have something to do with it.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal.../antiseize.php
Finally, have a look at the label(click to enlarge) on the following Permatex product.
It says(in part):
It even shows the product being applied to spark plugs.Insures removal of spark plugs
The "moral of the story" from all of the discussions is(paraphrasing) "don't overtighten and don't put too much on and all will be well"
It, IMO, beats the nightmare of trying to remove a frozen, or even potentially worse, a broken plug.
Suffice to say, I have never had a problem removing any of the plugs that I have installed, but sometimes have had to be very gentle with removing plugs that others have installed on vehicles that I had just recently purchased, or on those of friends and family members that I was working on.
I reckon I will keep using Anti-Seize.
Last edited by leadfoot6; 29-10-2019 at 08:41 PM.
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